Well, sorta word-free, if you don’t count the captions. I really, really haven’t had time to blog lately, as you can tell by the lack of posts in the last few months. So I guess I’ll sneak in a few photos from Hawaii that I never got around to sharing. At least they’re summer-y (and not dated) and feel appropriate for the time of year… lol. Till next time!

all smiles at Waiola's, the best shave ice ever! even Hawaii's finest say so.

technicolor dream cone

airport-close, a must stop just off the jet from HNL

mmm... poke!

amazing plate lunches, awesome service, and killer poke and roast pork

now that's take-out

food truckin' before it was hip to do so... shrimp at Giovanni's

made to order poke at Ono Seafood

POG (pineapple orange guava juice) and onolicious mac nut pancakes at Boots & Kimo's

the board room

the office

lost

a little scuba fun

Leonard's famous malasadas

hole in the wall morning grinds at Harry's Cafe and the homemade corned beef loco moco

baywatch

Side Street Inn's fried pork chop

and kimchi fried rice

lapping up Lappert's ice cream

peace out!

I really had my sights set on visiting Beirut, Lebanon this year (for the week proceeding Easter), and up until a few weeks before I was still checking flights and crossing my fingers that it would be possible. However, with unrest at an all time high, it was probably best to curb my wanderlust for the Middle East and keep things somewhat local and simple. No shawarma, kibbi, or shish tawook I told myself. With international flights anywhere prohibitively expensive this late in the game, I settled on an old standby. Oahu. No stress, worries or planning. Just warm sand, sunny beaches, and lazy days. And of course, ono kine grinds. I’m so there.

I originally planned to do a short entry on the trip, but ended up with way too many photos of the hotel we stayed at, the Waikiki EDITION, so I’ll show you those first. A collaboration between hotelier Ian Schrager and Marriott, the EDITION hotels are the mega chain’s first entry into the luxury boutique market. Opened in late 2010, the Waikiki EDITION features a beautiful palette of crisp whites and soft-toned woods, with lush greenery and subtle pops of color throughout. As far as I know, it’s is the only contemporary boutique hotel option on the island, and it does a great job of filling the void. Enjoy the photos!

modern island chic, interpreted.

this shelf wall rotates in the late afternoon to reveal a hidden lounge and bar, how cool is that?

shred.

lobby bar

the edition shop

refresh

rehydrate

Morimoto

Just about a year has past since my visit to Istanbul and I’m finally getting around to posting the last of the photographs from the trip. As I look at the images, reminiscing about the neighborhoods we explored, the names of restaurants and dishes we consumed, a lot of the details are hard to recall without referring to my written notes. One thing that did however leave a lasting impression was how wonderfully gracious and hospitable the Turkish people were during our stay. There was a genuine warmth and generosity in just about everyone we came across. Just beautiful people, period. I had such a great time in this amazing city, and along with the remaining food bits I wanted to share a little more of the people I captured with my lens.

One of my most memorable experiences was meeting up with Angelis Nannos of Istanbul Eats, our culinary and cultural guide for the good part of a morning during our week-long stay. The restaurant reviews from Istanbul Eats were so invaluable during our research and planning, that we made arrangements to be one of the first to participate in one of their walking food tours. Quirky but instantly lovable, Angelis led us through a labyrinth of narrow alleyways and crowded markets, showing us a breadth of foodstuffs from the ubiquitous to the more obscure. Visits to some off-the-beaten-path historical sites during the tour kept things interesting and well balanced. If you love food and culture, there isn’t a better way to get acquainted with the city.

Angelis; Turkish Delight; grape leaves; peaks of spices; cheese shop

More like a good friend than guide, Angelis was always more than happy to answer our barrage of questions about Turkey, its food and random minutia. Since we were the only ones in the group, he was also able to tailor the tour to our preferences (less touristy stuff, more food!). Along the way we met some incredibly beautiful and down-to-earth people; humble, proud, and always eager to oblige in my portrait requests.

vendor with a tray of tulumba tatlisi (fried dough soaked in syrup)

I realized in documenting the things we ate on our trip, I found myself too focused on the plates in front of me. What was really grabbing my attention were the people behind the food (and the people of Istanbul in general), and I was really beginning to enjoy capturing their expressions. Their warm smiles and easy demeanor say it all.

bagging Turkish coffee; coffee shop boys; ekmek kadayıfı; loaves; pide; vendor

Along our stroll we ran into a curious little vendor frying anchovies street-side. “Oh that’s hamsi”, Angelis exclaimed. I told Angelis we must try some.

These little anchovies were lightly dusted in cornmeal and fried crisp on the outside. A simple spritz of lemon was all that was needed. I have to say that this impromptu snack ranked as one of the best things I tasted in Istanbul. Delightfully fresh, briny, and piping hot on the inside. What I wouldn’t do to have a tray of that right now with an ice cold Turkish Pilsner.

We took a break in a hidden courtyard for a cup of çay (tea) and Türk kahvesi (Turkish coffee) to go along with some pastries we bought along the way.

Life in Istanbul can be quite leisurely. Let me rephrase that, people take time to enjoy themselves (unlike our fast paced culture at home). The men do enjoy their tea, and at all times of the day you can see runners with trays full of tea delivering hot amber glasses from storefront to storefront.

In a city that’s as modern and forward as Istanbul, it’s great to see shops that still specialize hand craftsmanship and individual trades.

As we ventured away from the throngs of tourists to a curiously quieter part of town, we arrived at a unique little shop. Vefa Bozacisi specializes in boza, a thick, slightly sour drink (popular during the Ottoman Empire) made from fermented millet seed. With a dash of cinnamon and a handful of roasted chickpeas on top, it’s an odd drink you consume with a spoon. Acquired taste aside, I can appreciate the little piece of history and tradition that’s being preserved and carried on.

The ever energetic Angelis took us next to another neat find, again less frequented by tourists. Kadinlar Pazari in the Fatih neighborhood is Istanbul’s Kurdish district. There’s a quaint pedestrian square is flanked by butcher shops and markets selling all types of meats, cheeses, and produce from Turkey’s eastern region.

Our little journey (and tour) ended at one of the square’s many restaurants for a leisurely afternoon meal.

Siirt Şeref Büryan Kebap Salonu specializes in regional Arabic dishes from the eastern part of Turkey that borders Syria and Iraq. The eponymous dish, büryan, is a slab of succulent roasted lamb that’s carved up and served atop freshly-baked pide bread.

We had a great time chatting over juicy pork bits and another Siirt specialty, perde pilaf, a cone of fragrant rice studded with shreds of chicken, almonds, and currants baked inside a crispy shell.

If you ever make it out to Istanbul… I mean when you do, make sure to hit these guys up. And ask for Angelis, you won’t be disappointed.

Spend any time in Istanbul and it’s highly likely you’ll end up in the Tünel/Asmalımescit area of Beyoğlu. The narrow cobblestone streets are home to outdoor cafes and pubs called meyhanes, which is like Turkey’s version of a tapas bar. It’s a great late night option when you want a little something to eat, and get your drink on too.

cafe culture; live music; pint; meze; shake it; aftermath

Black Sea comfort food at Pera Sisore in the Asmalımescit neighborhood

Another great place to explore at night is Istiklal Caddesi, the popular pedestrian avenue in the Beyoğlu district, and the adjacent Taksim Square. Besides people (locals and tourists alike), it’s chocked full of boutiques, stores, and food options of every imaginable kind.

fast food on Istiklal Caddesi

döner anyone?

Just off Istiklal Caddesi by the Beyoğlu fish market is Durumzade, a tiny wrap shop made famous by a particular travel show host (and it’s not the one that likes to eat grubs and iguanas). These handheld lavash wraps (durum) of minced chicken or beef kabobs are the perfect answer to the munchies after a long night hitting the bars. Good thing they’re open 24 hours.

In our conversations with our new friend Angelis, we asked him what he would recommend us to try. “Iskender” was his answer. I’m not sure we ended up at the restaurant he suggested (we walked back and forth on the Istiklal Caddesi trying to find a particular distinguishing landmark), but the iskender at Bursa Kebapçisi was spectacular enough.

iskender at Bursa Kebapçisi

This dish reminds me of a Turkish version of our American sports bar nachos. Cubes of pide bread, slathered with melted butter and a tangy tomato sauce, is heaped high with döner (thinly shaved lamb), köfte (ground meat), and filet, drizzled with yogurt, and garnished with tomatoes and green peppers. Guilt-inducingly decadent. I’m salivating just thinking of it.

At this point I think a little dessert would be nice. You can find baklava in small shops all over town, but I have to admit that the giant Costco-sized Karaköy Güllüoğlu was one of the best I tried. There’s almost 20 varieties of baklava (including my favorite, chocolate!), plus a handful of other decadent treats.

Mustafa Güllü, the friendly papa baklava

We shared an assortment with a few glasses of tea; a fittingly sweet end to our beautiful trip to Istanbul and to this series of posts. Chapter closed.

Previous entries from Istanbul:

Lost in Istanbul: Part I
From Turkey with Love
Lost in Istanbul: Part II
Eating Istanbul: Part I
Lost in Istanbul: Portrait of a City

Saturday night saw us heading out to the Mission once again, this time to meet a new friend in the bay area at Bar Tartine. An extension of Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson’s ever popular Tartine Bakery, the restaurant is just the type of place you wouldn’t mind having around the corner; it’s lively, cozy, and romantic, though simple and unfussy enough to pop in on a whim to grab a glass of wine and a bite at the bar.  Plans are in place to expand the restaurant into the adjoining space, so hopefully the owners and new chef Nick Balla (replacing the just departed Chris Kronner) can keep the same neighborhood feel.

Notables were the luscious and guilt-inducing bone marrow with grilled toast, and the perfectly pan-roasted chicken. Any mention of specific dishes will likely be a moot point however, as Nick Balla is expected to make menu wide changes under his helm.

Though the debate still rages on about who has the best pie in San Francisco, my absolute favorite is still the margherita at Pizzeria Delfina. Man can’t live on pizza alone, and good thing their sides like the tuna conserva and insalata tricolore seldom disappoint. This joint not surprisingly is popular among others in the city, so get there early (preferably before they open) to nab a table. We got a nice one streetside to enjoy the beautiful weather and gorgeous food-friendly light.

yes, I know you want a bite..

Window and people watching in the neighborhood provided a welcomed opportunity to walk off some of the calories consumed…

though it wasn’t long before it was snack time again:  a scoop or two from Bi-Rite’s creamy selections.

late afternoon rays, wispy-clouded blue skies, and salt air at Ocean Beach

It’s easy to say that the best meal of the weekend for me was at Incanto, the restaurant of Mark Pastore and that offal guy, Chris Cosentino. For some odd reason I expected dinner to be a Zimmern Bourdain-ish type of experience, with a series of dares on who would be brave enough to eat what, but Incanto was surprisingly not like that at all. Yes, there are a handful of dishes that exemplify the head-to-tail cooking that Cosentino is famous for, but take away the hype and our American unfamiliarity to the less-often used parts and what you are left with is just simple hearty Italian fare, and well executed I might add.

Stand outs? Just about everything we sampled. The pig’s blood pappardelle with pig’s trotters and foie gras was rich, unctuous, and so over the top. The ‘best parts of the chicken’ risotto was studded with chicken hearts and liver, and tiled with crispy shards of skin. The pork belly was as decadent as pork belly usually is, the accompanying salad of shaved Buddha’s hand deftly cutting the richness of the fat. The pomegranate-glazed poussin with cippolini & treviso drew unanimous raves, and had us pulling out our smartphones to find the recipe which was featured on the Martha Stewart show. I could go on and on about the other dishes, but why bother. Go check them out for yourself.

On our last morning we had a down home breakfast at the lovely Brenda’s before checking out exhibits at SFMOMA. “How Wine Became Modern“, “Exposed: Voyeurism, Surveillance, and the Camera Since 1870“, and “Henri Cartier-Bresson: The Modern Century” are still showing and definitely worth seeing if you’re in town.

Our last dinner in town was at the nationally-recognized and the much talked about Flour + Water; get this, another Italian meal for us in the Mission. Our stumbling economy and typically slow Monday nights have no bearing on this place. We arrived 30 minutes before opening and a line was already forming; within 20 minutes of opening the doors almost all seats had been accounted for. The place was packed. We secured some seats at the communal table up front and met another new friend for night of good food, wine, and conversation (and surrendered my camera after a few quick shots). After a marathon weekend of consumption my memory, tastebuds, and stomach were a little worse for wear; everything I tasted was delicious but I don’t have much to add beyond that. I think I need another vacation.

If there’s one thing I never tire of when visiting the city, it’s the ferry building. I have to go every single time. It’s one of those few places that fall under the must-go-or-i’ll-whine category. I’m not sure most people I know understand this fascination, but at least Gordon indulges me when I’m in town. (Thanks Gordon!) If you love food though, it’s really not that surprising. This place has it all. Awesome food vendors, amazing produce and foodstuffs, a breathtaking waterfront location… and I’m only talking about the outside farmers’ market! Inside the beautifully restored building (dating back to 1898) are some fabulous restaurants, eateries, and more purveyors of fine goods. Of course there’s also the photo geek side of me that sees eye candy and photo ops everywhere. All in all, this place is like my version of Disneyland.

So rather than bore you with details of what we saw, ate, and did, let me take you on a little photo tour of our afternoon.

colors of fall

I just love the intricate details of the building, and all the natural light that floods the marketplace

closeup of the steel frame structure

beautiful stuff to be found at the market, and Gordon being goofy as usual

couldn't help but stalk this apple stand. the apples in their rustic boxes were so photogenic!

the angry skies took a break just for us

freshly shucked slurpees (oysters) by the water, what's not to like?

George, who graciously allowed me to take his portrait. Thanks George!

snack time: 4505 Meats; Zilladog (hotdog + kimchi + chicharrones); 4505 burger; more chicharrones

onto more from Hog Island, this time at the restaurant.

Hog Island's heavenly clam chowder and grilled cheese

not too shabby of an afternoon

I’m sure if I lived up here I wouldn’t have the same fervor about the ferry building; but since I don’t, I’ll just pretend that it’s the happiest place on earth.

A couple of weeks ago we took a quick trip to San Francisco to visit my good friend Gordon for a few days. Who knew that a weekend of eating, hanging out, and eating some more could yield so many good memories (and yes, tons of photos). I’m going to have to split it up into several posts, so here are some of the highlights from the first couple of meals.

Our first evening in the sopping-wet city, we headed out to Contigo, a little tapas restaurant in Noe Valley.

Highlights were definitely the queso fresco, lomo iberico, patatas bravas, and churros con chocolate, though I have to admit that most of our enthusiasm for the food was tempered by a ridiculously long 45 minute wait past our reservation, since the party occupying our table were in no hurry to leave. Bad, bad Contigo.

After an endless downpour throughout the night, we were gifted the next morning with beautiful, sunny skies! Time for some breakfast.

Gordon took us to Dynamo in the Mission for some doughnuts. With about a dozen flavors to choose from, the crowd favorite was the maple glazed bacon apple. Um.. bacon, need I explain more? (We also got a passionfruit milk chocolate for good measure.)

With a box of doughnuts in hand, we made a quick jaunt to Philz. Though I’ve had their coffee (beans) before, Gordon assures me that I need to try their made-to-order poured coffee.

Philz has a real bohemian vibe. No test tubes, beakers, La Marzoccos, or Clovers here. Just straight-up, handmade drip coffee. Now that’s love in a cup!

A steaming cup of Jacob’s blend + maple glaze bacon.. this is killing me. I really shouldn’t write these posts late at night.

Next up, off to the Ferry Building!

Ever since receiving the Big Sur Bakery Cookbook earlier this year, I’ve been eager to visit this curious little place, a restaurant and bakery that somehow survives in the rugged and unforgiving climate of the Central Coast. In their book, owners Philip and Michelle Wojtowicz and Michael Gilson chronicle a year in the life of their restaurant; it’s filled with stunningly beautiful photographs, seasonal recipes, charming stories and personal accounts, inspirational profiles of the purveyors, farmers, and local characters the bakery couldn’t exist without. Flipping through the pages, it’s hard not to fall in love with with the romantic notion of work and life in this idyllic remote region.

Oh yeah, the bakery was going to be a mandatory stop during this summer’s Big Sur camping trip. Hell, you could even say the camping was planned around a visit to the bakery. Anyways, we made the leisurely drive up Highway 1 on day 3; a bit smoky, scruffy, and definitely hungry.

The address simply says Highway 1, Big Sur, CA 93920. You’d think it would be hard to miss but let the awe of the surroundings distract you as it does on the drive there and you might just pass it up.

You can order coffee, pastries, and goodies from the bakery, or take a seat for brunch (and even dinner). There’s a beautiful patio outside, and if the weather cooperates as it did on our visit, that’s definitely the place to be.

As far as the food, I’ll let the photos do the talking.

cap and cookies

nine grain cast iron pancake; cafe mocha

wood-fired bacon & 3 egg breakfast pizza

grilled gruyere and ham, mixed greens, and steak fries

biscuit with blackberries and whipped cream

We had a nice lazy brunch, stuffing ourselves silly with caffeine and carbs. Definitely a welcomed break from cooking, cleaning, and feeling all scrubby and greasy at the campsite; but who says you always have to ‘rough’ it?

And I leave you with another shot of the coast, just because I couldn’t take enough of these.. bye bye, Big Sur!

Dipping into the first few days of fall, I’m reminded how fast the seasons go by, and how the days seem to elude us more and more with each passing year. Summer has come and gone, and one my fondest memories was of our trip in late June to Big Sur. Last year’s outdoors excursion in Yosemite was a total blast, and this time we decided to change it up and head out to the beautiful central California coast.

There’s a handful of campsites that dot the rugged coastal landscape of the Santa Lucia Mountains, but I knew early on in the planning process that one near the Pacific was a must (reserving a campsite 6 months ahead is highly recommended, as the spots fill up fast). We settled upon Kirk Creek, 34 sites on a bluff with spectacular views of the ocean (I guess we must have been onto something, as the same campsite was featured in the July issue of Sunset Magazine!).

While most of us were coming from Southern California, my friend Gordon made the shorter trek from San Francisco. We arrived in the early afternoon, with my passengers a little nauseated from my spirited drive through the twisties of the incredibly picturesque Highway 1. The welcome as we pulled into our spot could not have been more perfect: a little green oasis tucked below a stand of tall pines; invigoratingly brisk ocean breezes whispered from the Pacific as the afternoon rays peaking through the wisps of clouds sought to warm and loosen our travel-tired bodies. Heaven. We unpacked the cars, pitched our tents, and unwound for the rest of the day by just soaking in the elements, reading, and even sneaking in an ever-indulgent nap or so.

With the last of our group present and unpacked, we settled into dinner prep mode. On the menu for the night: shaved fennel and celery salad with Comté, lemon, olive oil; fire-grilled summer corn; cedar-plank salmon with dill.

our home for the next 3 days

Gordon taking in the last of the day's light

tucking into dinner

Last but definitely not least, Gordon’s famous apple pie. So damn good. We vowed to bring some ice cream next trip for the first night’s pie. Wouldn’t that be awesome?

this is what makes it all worthwhile

After being lulled to sleep by crashing waves (yes, so awful i know), we eventually crawled out of the warmth of our tents and started the whole routine again.

camp cafe sua da; thick-cut Black Forest bacon; Judy enjoying a cup; breakfast sausage; showing off iphone pics; sausages done!; steel-cut oats with summer berries

After a hearty breakfast, we sought to burn off a few calories and headed down the trail adjacent to the site that leads the ocean. It was far from a strenuous hike, so the calorie-burning part was moot, but we were at least rewarded again with more spectacular nature.

a brook alongside the trail

leading up to the beach

The little piece of coastline this trail brings you to is small and secluded, but oh so majestic. We shared this spot with another group or two, but within a few minutes we had it all to ourselves.

fun climbing rocks, skipping stones, and writing messages in the sand; obligatory group shot

Back to camp and hey, it’s time for lunch! Scott’s grilled brats with leftover fennel slaw.

Gordon and I had planned to do a little fishing, so a few of us headed over to Sand Dollar Beach, a few miles south of Kirk Creek. While we didn’t return to camp with some fresh catch of the day, we had a lot of fun goofing off as we usually do.

We got back so late that it was already getting dark, so unfortunately no photos of Bora’s Korean BBQ extravaganza, but I can assure you it was delicious! We did get this gorgeous sight though to cap off a beautiful day.

The next day we headed up to the heart of Big Sur, about 50 minutes north of our camp, for a little pampering. By that I mean no cooking for once (a meal out, yay!) and some desperately needed showers (there are none at Kirk Creek, we had to visit a bigger park for their coin-operated showers). We stuffed ourselves with a hearty brunch at the Big Sur Bakery (which I will cover on my next post).

Next, a little sightseeing to catch McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.

We were a little bummed to not be able to get closer to the falls, but totally understood and agreed with the wishes of Helen Hooper Brown, who gifted the land to the state where the falls are situated, to restrict access thereby preserving the natural beauty of this treasure.

Our last night we enjoyed Gordon’s carne asada tacos (sorry Gordon, no pics!) and savored the last evening together in this beautiful place. Big Sur was just the experience and getaway we needed to recharge our batteries, clear our minds, and get back in touch with the glorious outdoors that we often miss in our hectic lives. It definitely yielded lots of wonderful summer memories, ones I won’t be forgetting anytime soon.

I’m going to apologize in advance if the Istanbul photos have become tired and so last season. It’s just that after several somewhat untimely entries, there are still so many images I want to share. Besides being a food mecca, Istanbul is easily one of my favorite cities to photograph. I don’t think there needs to be any more explanation, I’ll just let the photos and captions tell the story this time.

the kitsch that is the Grand Bazaar

light conversation

tavla or backgammon, played everywhere in Turkey

shopping break

navigating our way through a maze of narrow streets in search of the Egyptian Bazaar

spice trade

Turkish delights at the Egyptian Bazaar

beautiful, overrated, and expensive Pandeli restaurant

"do not feed the pigeons"

cleanse

55F and showers expected

backside; midye dolmasi (stuffed mussels); simit vendor (sesame bread); catch of the day

Karaköy waterfront

the beautiful, untouristed Beşiktaş fish market

on the Bosphorus

David & Goliath

Food has become an ever-increasingly important facet of travel these days, and it’s hard to deny that a country’s or region’s cuisine has as much to say about itself as any historical site, museum, or tourist attraction. Istanbul is no exception; every restaurant, dish, and bite create a beautiful tapestry that illustrates the soul of the people, and the complex, intertwined history of immigrants, exotic trade and spice routes, and foreign conquests that have help shape the fabric of the city and its culture. So it’s not difficult to imagine that discovering the food of Istanbul would be a important if not integral part of our visit. Given the size and sprawl of this metropolis, it’s easy to get lost among the shear number of eateries and restaurants commanding your attention. But thanks to a stack of guide books, some great online sources, valuable advice from locals, and a little serendipity and luck, we were able to uncover some fabulous eats over the duration of our stay that made our trip to Turkey simply wonderful; probably one of the most memorable to date.

Our baptism into the world of Turkish food occurred shortly after arriving into Istanbul. Famished after the long journey from LA, we sought a quick, late-night fix to quell our growling stomachs and stumbled into the busiest establishment we could find. Within steps of the W Istanbul, Şampiyon Kokoreç looked like any other chain fast food joint: small, brightly-lit, staffed with neatly-uniformed employees, and filled with post-drinking revelers and hungry insomniacs. We soon found out the specialty, kokoreç, is the small and large intestines of lamb, layered on a spit and slowly roasted. The meat is pulled off the spit, chopped and grilled with tomatoes and red peppers, and dusted liberally with dried oregano. The hash is served as-is on a plate, or as I prefer it, scooped into flavor-sopping bun. The resulting sandwich, in my opinion, is one of the best contributions to Turkish late-night cuisine. The combination of charred and juicy bits, with intense lamb flavor (surprisingly devoid of the usual innard funk) would convert even the most offal averse. Greasy, filling, and absolutely delicious. Kokoreç was quite possibly the best (and unanticipated) introduction we could have hoped for, and the perfect late-night snack.

I have to admit the thought of getting around Istanbul was initially quite intimidating. All the books, articles, and travel shows could only do so much to paint a picture of this vast and exotic city. It can be overwhelming the first day or so, but the expanse quickly shrinks down to a more manageable size. When it comes to the food scene in Istanbul, One resource that was invaluable in plotting out the culinary landscape was istanbuleats.com. This English language website contains a wealth of restaurant reviews and hand-picked recommendations, uncovering hidden gems passed up in the usual guide books.

One of the many choice finds suggested by istanbuleats was the lovely Van Kahavaltı Evi. Specializing in regional fare, with a focus on local and organic products, this lively hotspot in the Cihangir neighborhood serves up a wonderful Turkish breakfast. We enjoyed a leisurely morning streetside, sampling regional cheeses with tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, and crusty bread, and sipping hot tea elbow to elbow with young Turks. Not to be missed is the sucuklu menemen, fluffy scrabbled eggs with spicy sausage, tomatoes, onions, and peppers, and the indulgent bal kaymak, Turkey’s version of clotted cream, adorned with beautifully golden honeycomb. If there was a better way to start the day, we didn’t know it.

Another great suggestion from istanbuleats was the wonderful Zübeyir. Just off Istiklal Caddesi (the main walking drag in Beyoğlu), this quaint kabob house is a must try for the ubiquitous grilled skewers found throughout Istanbul. We grabbed prime seats next to the ocakbaşı (a long hearth with a beautiful, hand-hammered copper hood), and had a fabulous evening watching a variety of meats sizzle and smoke over crackling hardwood coals, and finding their way onto our plates and into our happy stomachs. Along with perfectly grilled skewers like the spicy adana kabob, lamb chops, and the amazingly succulent lamb ribs, we also selected a few plates from their tray of mezze (appetizers), like a creamy pumpkin mash with tart pomegranate molasses, and black-eyed peas with parsley, dill, and lemon. We toasted a night of great food and good cheer with a few glasses of anise-y raki, the Turkish spirit not unlike the Greek ouzo.

Any visit to Istanbul will inevitably lead you to the Galata bridge, the link between the new and old city, and the busy southside waterfront of Eminönü. It is here at the mouth of the Golden Horn where you will find throngs of people rushing to and from the ferries that shuttle locals and visitors alike to various stops up and down the Bosphorus. This whole area seems to be teeming with fish; those who seek to catch them, as evident from the scores of locals with their poles angled off the sides of the bridge, and the restaurants and vendors who aim to cook and sell you some. Many of the restaurants that occupy the lower level of Galata will attempt to lure you in with a sales pitch and some Turkish charm, but the real action occurs adjacent to the ferry landing, where gilded and ornately decorated floating kitchens will sell you balik ekmek. There’s something more fun watching your fish sandwich, which is simply grilled and served with shredded lettuce and onions in a baguette, being made on a boat, and then deftly handed off as swells lull the package within the vendor’s grasp on terra firma. Balik ekmek is typically consumed with an alarmingly rosy-tinged cup of briny salgam, or pickle juice (I tried a pickle but refrained from drinking the juice). However you wish to eat it, a worthwhile experience nonetheless.

If there was one thing we couldn’t get enough of in Istanbul, it was kaymak. Luscious, creamy, and never too rich, this indulgent treat became a part of our morning ritual. Luckily for us, just a short stroll from our hotel was Beşiktaş Kaymakçi, where charismatic owner Pando serves his kaymak traditionally with a spoonful of Turkish honey, accompanied with a light and crisp baguette. Show any interest, and he will proudly gesture to old photos on the wall, of ancestors that have run this old shop since 1895, and of water buffaloes from which kaymak is made (from the milk that is). Beşiktaş Kaymakci is a charming piece of living Istanbul history, well off the beaten tourist path. If you’re in the neighborhood, pay old Pando a visit.

If traditional establishments reflect the cuisine of Istanbul’s past, a good handful of restaurants also point to the city’s modern and chic present. At the sleek Mikla restaurant, star chef Mehmet Gürs displays the creative fusion of his Turkish and Scandinavian roots. Local fish like grouper is sliced raw and presented simply with dill, chives, lemon, and jewels of caviar. Flavorful Kıvırcık lamb, sourced from the Trakya region in Northern Turkey, is offered in various preparations, each accompanied with modern takes on familiar ingredients. The food is only topped by the killer, panoramic view of the city that is alone worth the price of entry.

Though upscale, posh places weren’t really part of our focus, we also stopped into the Ortaköy branch of the House Café for a little bite to eat. With multiple locations throughout Istanbul, this cafe offers casual, contemporary plates like mini lahmacun ‘pizzas’ (flatbread with minced meat), paninis, and Italian coffee in trendy interiors individually designed by local firm Autoban.

There’s still more food to come in a future entry. I just wanted to spare everyone the crazy single post with a thousand photos. Hopefully this time it won’t take another month or so to post it.