The last few months have been incredibly hectic. Between work, travel, and odd projects around the house, there isn’t enough time in the day (and night) to accomplish everything on my list. Unfortunately after all the tasks are done for the day, the last thing I desire to do is sit even longer on the computer and wade through photo upon photo to try to finish some long overdue posts. So that basically explains the horrid infrequency of new entries on the blog, and for that I’m sorry. And yet another weekend away from home, this time it’s a last minute trip to NYC to celebrate a very special birthday. And on that note, here are some snapshots from last year’s visit that I never got around to posting.

And oh, by the way, happy birthday, sweetheart!

If you pictured Istanbul to be a crowded and bustling mecca, a myriad of narrow alleyways and meandering hilly streets, where around every corner persuasive but charming men hawked carpets and spices between sips of Turkish coffee and bites of baklava, far away travelers entranced as much by the vast array of goods as by the hypnotic adhan or Islamic call to prayer echoing from the towering minarets above, you wouldn’t be too far from the truth. There’s another side however, that belies most people’s perception of this city of old world charm. Istanbul is surprisingly modern, stylish, and chic.

A perfect example is the W Istanbul. Off the beaten tourist path just steps away from the modest Beşiktaş market lies the first European outpost of the designer hotel chain, nestled between exclusive über-posh boutiques from Marc Jacobs, Jimmy Choo, Bottega Veneta, Fred Perry, and Paul Smith. Pulling up the cobblestone driveway, I felt as if we were being dropped off on Rodeo Drive. The grandly lit facades and meticulously maintained streets had an uncanny resemblance to our own Beverly Hills. On most nights, the overwhelming presence of well-dressed pleasure seekers in their Ferraris, Aston Martins, and Mercedes did little to refute the fact that this (and the nearby Nişantaşı district) was the playground for Istanbul’s privileged.

The property is smallish by typical W standards, but the rooms are nicely appointed, though bordering on belly-dancing-ish kitsch. They do have some crazy options for those with unlimited budgets (alas not me), like rooms with private courtyard cabanas. I can’t really complain though, as thanks to some gifted Starwood points we were still able to indulge in a little bit of luxury.

I have to admit I felt a little guilty staying in an American mega-chain hotel when I should have been sampling something a bit more Turkish, but nothing was more comforting than having a place to come back to every night where you know you’d be taken care of.

Ah yes, kick off those shoes and rest those weary feet.

What about the Turkish food you ask? I know I know, that’s coming up next..

It’s been a month already and Istanbul is still on my mind. I can’t remember the last place I had the opportunity of visiting that completely and utterly captured my heart, soul, and stomach. I recall clearly the puzzled expressions and concerned tones I received when I told my family and friends that I would be visiting Turkey on my next trip. “Why Turkey? What’s in Istanbul? Isn’t it dangerous? Why don’t you go to Spain or Italy instead?” I wanted to say, “Why it’s the 2010 European Capital of Culture!” or “It has an incredible array of historic sites and monuments.” or “It’s really cosmopolitan and modern!” While all of those statements are completely valid, the real reason and overwhelming deciding factor that Istanbul made the cut was that it was the only viable destination on the short list that wouldn’t conflict with our travel during the week preceding Easter Sunday. Most of the desirable cities in South America and Europe (places we wanted to go to) I was told, shut down during that week. “Everything will be closed, even the restaurants.” Gasp. That’s the whole purpose of traveling, right? Is to eat?

Well I have to say, Istanbul really sealed the deal because it’s been touted as one of the most exciting food cities as of late, and trust me, it didn’t disappoint. While the food coverage will have to wait for the next post, I leave you with a few images from the trip that will hopefully illustrate the beauty, mystery, and charm of this exotic city. Lots more to come…

As I scrolled through the last set of photos for my final Vancouver post, I couldn’t help but smile as I reminisced about the wonderful experience we had at Café Medina. Stacks upon stacks of craggy Belgian waffles, gooey drippy sauces of raspberry caramel and rosewater pistachio, perfectly poured lattes laced with lavender syrup, a cozy light-filled window seat as we passed the morning away indulging on hearty fare like the popular tagine, a earthenware dish filled with spicy Merguez sausage and Moroccan olives in a tomato stew, gilded with oozy poached eggs. I know I say this quite often, but what I wouldn’t give to have a place like this close to home.

Did I mention the lavender latte? A creation so amazingly good I’m surprised others haven’t caught on… yet. I’m definitely stealing this idea!

tagine - poached eggs in a spicy tomato stew with Merguez sausage, Moroccan olives, red bell peppers, chickpeas, cilantro

waffles with chocolate lavender & raspberry caramel; green tea latte; oeufs cocottes; fricassé

Let’s not forget the fricassé, two sunny eggs with braised short ribs, roasted potatoes, caramelized onions, arugula, and applewood cheddar, or the oeufs cocottes, eggs baked with cream cheese, smoked sockeye salmon, artichokes, topped with a salad of arugula and cherry tomatoes. Until next time (or if they decide to miraculously open an outpost in Los Angeles), I’ll have to resort to ogling over photos.

On our last night, we decided to keep it close to home in Yaletown and dine right down the street from the Opus Hotel. The sister restaurant to the excellent Araxi in Whistler, Blue Water Cafe features a similar dueling restaurant concept: British Columbia inspired seafood + expertly prepared sushi/sashimi.

The restaurant’s converted warehouse space is rustic, elegant, and uniquely Vancouver.

We had a sampling of nigiri sushi (and beef sashimi) from chef Yoshi Tabo’s raw bar. While somewhat limited in selection, the fish ranked as some of the freshest I’ve had. From chef Frank Pabst’s open kitchen, we ordered a handful of dishes: mackerel with grilled scallions, toasted almonds, wild arugula, crostini with romesco sauce; mixed ceviche with cucumber, grapefruit, ginger, fresh coriander; white sturgeon with wheat berries, capers, celery hearts, and peppery greens, smoked onion aioli; dungeness crab & flying squid with couscous, chickpeas, green onions, parsley, harissa vinaigrette.

Everything was inventive and delicious, but if pressed to choose between kitchens, I would give the nod to the raw bar.

beef sashimi, garlic chips, green onions, yu'kke sauce

the beautiful dining room

So long, Vancouver!

We had one more night and day in Vancouver after returning from Whistler, and though returning to the Loden would have been just fine, a change of venue and scenery is always welcomed. So in our planning we decided to switch up hotels and spend a little time across the way in Yaletown.

Billed as one of Vancouver’s most stylish boutique hotels, the Opus is situated among trendy boutiques, restaurants, and hotspots in the revitalized industrial warehouse district of Yaletown. Though not as posh and polished as the Loden, the Opus still holds its own with friendly and impeccable service, a great location, and proximity to nearby amenities.

Our room was clean, comfortable, and quiet (don’t count on this, as the hotel was uncannily empty during the pre-olympic lull). However, the decor was a bit pedestrian and dated, seemingly in need of a refresher since its launch in 2002. A small nitpick, yes, though warranted since competition in Vancouver is fierce and the prices weren’t exactly cheap.

reading material; bubbly; L'Occitane; bedside

ever so common bath with a view, question is view for who?

view of Yaletown-Roundhouse station from the room

Unfortunately by the time we arrived from Whistler and finished settling in, it was late afternoon on Sunday, and all the shops were already closed. The concierge suggested that we take a walk to the waterfront, only a few blocks away. One of the best recommendations, ever.

We passed by Urban Fare, Vancouver’s answer to Whole Foods. A total citydweller’s food paradise.

the beginning of a beautiful evening... no rain!

We got down to the marina only to realized it was way too beautiful without my wide angle lens! After a brisk walk to and from the hotel, we were treated with these breathtaking waterfront views.

Quayside Marina

imagine the views from these units!

The seeds are being planted… I could totally imagine living here. We continued walking along the water, towards BC Place and the Plaza of Nations.

capturing a shot of Science World and the Strathcona neighborhood

crew under Cambie Street Bridge

Plaza of Nations

And back to the hotel to freshen up before dinner.

The one thing I’ve always loved about Whistler is that once you get there, everything is accessible on foot. The quaint European-style village, with its meandering walkways and paths is interspersed with lodging, restaurants, bars, and shops. There’s even a small market and liquor store for stocking up on supplies and snacks. All this, right at the base of the slopes.

Considering that we spent the new year’s holiday here, we were lucky enough to get a room at the Westin Resort and Spa, within a few hundred yards of both the Whistler and Blackcomb gondolas. There’s even valet service where you can drop off your gear at the bottom of the run, so you won’t have to schlep your board or skis back to the hotel.

If you thought the restaurant industry was tough, just imagine what it takes to run a successful eatery in a climate where business is extremely seasonal. You either get it right or you’re not going to last for long. Though it’s impossible to compare this ski town to food metropolis Vancouver, Whistler can still hold its own in quality and variety. On our 3 night stay, we only had two opportunities for a nice dinner, as the new year’s eve set menus proved to be too pricey at most restaurants (we ended up getting a quick and satisfying meal at Sushi Village). For the next two nights, we ended up at Bearfoot Bistro and Araxi.

Trudging down a snow covered sidewalk, we couldn’t help but wonder why our dinner at one of Whistler’s supposed best restaurants was located inside a Best Western hotel (I believe it was previously independent at some point). Stepping inside, we were presented with a completely different impression: an extravagant, ornately decorated dining room that whispered more late 80’s old money than hip trendy hotspot. I haven’t felt so out of place since my first forays into fine dining as a young adult.

Besides the ambiance, Bearfoot’s menu concept was a bit stifling as well. Although there was a large selection of dishes to choose from, we were bound to either a 3 course menu at $89CAD, or a 5 course for $148CAD. On top of that, most of the desirable ooh-aah dishes required hefty supplement charges (a whopping $36 more for a Kobe beef carpaccio appetizer, $26 more for a wild artic caribou with foie gras main). Faced with sticker shock, we stuck to the non-supplemented items for a 3 course dinner.

amuse bouche of parsnip purée (I believe); hamachi & yellowfin tuna with yuzu watermelon, fresh jalapeño, sesame ginger dressing; Vancouver Island blackcod with BC spot prawn, tom yum, kaffir lime, shimeji mushroom

White - wild spring salmon, dill, asparagus, Pemberton carrots; Canadian prime beef tenderloin with sweet corn purée, fingerling root vegetable hash, purple mustard marjoram jus, popcorn

Arbequina olive oil three ways - madeleine sponge, jelly, ice cream, white chocolate raspberry chip, tarragon snow; sous vide Victoria pineapple with gingerbread savarin, milk chocolate chantilly, santa teresa rum coconut ice cream

Though all the dishes were solid and the ingredients fresh and top notch, nothing really stood out as much as the desserts. If left to do it over, I would head to the bar (there’s a separate though far less extensive menu) and order a small plate plus dessert. However, the desserts we had were not on the bar dessert menu, and I’m not sure if they could be ordered. Make the menu a bit more flexible (maybe less expensive?), and Bearfoot might be a winner.

I still can’t get over how beautiful the village and slopes were at night, especially with a light snowfall… it’s just magical.

Still reeling from dinner the night before, we set out to get a bite with a little less bite on our wallets (a burger and fries from Splitz). As we walked through the village, my eyes feasted on the warm glow emanating from Araxi. I peered into the window, like a poor pauper on the snow-covered streets of old London, envious of all the warm, gleeful patrons tucked in for a night of good food and cheer. It was one of those what-the-hell moments… I couldn’t resist.

We stepped in the from the cold and into the warm and inviting dining room run by executive chef James Walt. Though definitely in the same league as Bearfoot, Araxi manages to feel upscale but totally modern and approachable. Fortunately we were early enough to miss the typical 7-7:30 dinner rush, and scored a nice table for 2 without reservations.

This time, we went with a few selections from the small plates menu. The North Arm beet salad was beautifully plated, with a nice textural contrast from crisp lettuce, crunchy beet shavings, earthy roasted beets, and rich and creamy manchego. The Grilled Vancouver Island octopus, prepared as a terrine, was intriguing and unexpected; the little ‘logs’ of octopus were tender and distinctly briny.

North Arm Farm beet salad with Manchego cheese, roasted garlic and lemon thyme, baby gem lettuce and candied walnuts

Grilled Vancouver Island octopus with Across the Creek butter potato salad and baby squid stuffed with BC spot prawns

The local oysters were all sweet and fresh, my favorite being the one topped with ponzu ‘pearls’. The duck duo (aka foie gras parfait + duck terrine) was rich and decadent, although the measly two slices of brioche weren’t sufficient for all that duck fat goodness. Our server was happy to bring us more upon request, though by the time it got to our table there wasn’t much duck left.

tasting of oysters - five local oysters, dressed differently with trout caviar, Dungeness crab meat, ponzu pearls, cucumber relish, cherry mignonette

foie gras parfait + duck terrine - Okanagan apple, pear, quince and cherry mostardo, smoked sea salt and toasted brioche

Don’t let its pale appearance fool you, the gnocchi with tender lamb ragu was hearty and filling; the sharp bite of romano and fresh herbs definitely balanced out the otherwise buttery sauce.

truffle ricotta gnocchi with Salt Spring Island lamb, arugula, toasted chestnuts and pecorino romano

For dessert, a creamy mascarpone cheesecake topped with caramelized apples, paired with a glass of Domaine Pinnacle ice cider from Quebec.

caramelized apple cheesecake - vanilla-mascarpone cheesecake with almond streusel crust

two forks for sharing... delicious.

Going out for a cheap, simple dinner? Fail. Finding one of the best restaurants in Whistler? Sweet success.

After a long day burning up thousands of calories on the slopes, who wouldn’t want a nice juicy burger? I guess owners Trevor and Miriam Jackson figured this out in 1997 when they first opened Splitz Grill. Their build-your-own-burger joint is jam-packed during the lunch and dinner rush.

You first order at the counter specifying your protein of choice (beef, chicken, free-range bison, Salt Spring Island lamb, wild sockeye salmon, Italian sausage) and if you want cheese, bacon, sauteed mushrooms, or sauteed onions. After placing your order, scoot down the line and pick out your toppings, which includes some interesting Mediterranean inspired items like hummus, baba ganoush, and tzatziki sauce. This aint no Mickey D’s assembly line, so be prepared to wait, but boy is it worth it.

I sampled the beef and the locally-raised lamb, both of which were absolutely drip-down-the-arm juicy and delicious. I wouldn’t necessarily call the lamb gamy, but there’s no mistaking what kind of meat this is; lamb lovers would approve. The thick-cut fries were nice and crisp, no complaints here.

And if you weren’t already full by now, there’s always the banana split.  Gooey, fruity, cold, and hot mess, and yes, whipped cream too.

Happy Friday! And on that note, I’m off to Mammoth for some more snow festivities.

All that bitching about rain and gloom in Vancouver fell silent as we were treated to a magical white new year’s eve in the village, followed by a chilly but awesome powder day on the slopes. Welcome, 2010!

With its low base elevation (2,214 ft in the village), Whistler Blackcomb is susceptible to wet slushy conditions on the lower part of the mountain. When the weather cooperates, it’s pretty darn awesome.

The trees are totally flocked!

Basically the whole mountain is open (after a lot of avalanche control).

I was the only one on this run for a good 20 minutes, because no one was stupid enough to board in knee-deep powder on the moderately flat areas.

Kids, do not attempt this at home. Wait, who am I kidding.

Yes, it was really this deserted… and snowy.

Brrr… time to get in from the cold and refuel.