Archive for the ‘eats’ Category

bites: san francisco

Friday
Jul 10, 2009

transamerica

Tony Bennett may have left his heart in San Francisco, but I think I left my stomach. Here are just a handful of my favorite eateries. More to come in another entry!

Brenda’s French Soul Food

Who would have imagined that the one of the best Creole restaurants I’ve sampled was in the heart of San Francisco. There may be the naysayers that claim that it’s not completely authentic, and in some ways I may have to agree. I’ve dined throughout the south (North & South Carolina, Savannah, New Orleans), and for the most part, Brenda’s is better. The execution and flavors are superior (most southern/soul/creole/cajun food I’ve tried have been too salty or bland.) A must try is the oyster po-boy (get shrimp if you don’t like oysters). The plump oysters were perfectly seasoned and fried, and bursted with flavor with every bite. The spicy rémoulade countered the richness of the oysters, and the toasted roll was pure, buttery heaven. I do have to admit the beignets were a little bit of a let down, suffering from too much doughiness inside. Overall, a great place for brunch if you can beat the crowds lining out the door.

brenda's french soul food

fried oyster po-boy with chipotle rémoulade; windows to the soul; beignet flight; community coffee and chickory

Brenda’s French Soul Food
652 Polk Street
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 345-8100

Pizzeria Delfina

I don’t think there’s enough I can say about this place. Hands down still the best margherita pizza I’ve had in California. The crust is thin, bubbly, and charred, and still able to hold up to the tomato sauce and buffalo mozzarella. And please, no Mozza comparisons. There are none. Delfina has managed to keep their food pure and simple, and utterly delicious. Bravo.

pizzeria delfina

menu; libations; margherita pizza

menu; beer & wine; margherita pizza

Pizzeria Delfina
3611 18th Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 437-6800

Bi-Rite Creamery

Just a skip and hop away from Pizzeria Delfina is the bay’s best ice cream shop. Perfect for dessert after pizza, or a snack, or whatever reason. Flavors like Roasted Banana, Salted Caramel, and Balsamic Strawberry are just different enough to keep it interesting, but in the end it’s Bi-Rite’s ultra-luscious mouth feel that makes it leaps above the rest. Using Strauss Family Organic Dairy doesn’t hurt either.

bi-rite creamery

Bi-Rite Creamery
3692 18th Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 626-5600

Ritual Roasters

Artisan, house-roasted coffee made with love and passion, what’s not to like?

ritual roasters

Ritual Roasters
1026 Valencia Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 641-1024

Have a great weekend!

bucking the trend

  • Filed under: eats
Monday
Jul 6, 2009

handmade soba at Ichimi-an Bamboo Garden

soba with nameko mushrooms and grated daikon

In a world of big box retailers, strip malls, and mega chains, where everything is mass-produced, market-studied, cost-cutted, and generic, lies an almost invisible little noodle shop, in the sleepy if not dormant old-town Torrance. If it wasn’t for the ubiquitous neon ‘open’ sign illuminated just above the thicket of young bamboo, you would be hard-pressed to even notice Ichimi-an was open for business. Step inside, and it’s no different. At peak lunch hour, the tiny restaurant quietly hums along at a causal pace; a soft-spoken Japanese man takes orders from the register at the center of the restaurant, while patrons at the low counter and small tables along the window and walls slurp down bowls of handmade buckwheat noodles.

udon with vinegary seaweed, grated yam, ginger

However calm and relaxed Ichimi-an might feel, the kitchen runs with typical Japanese efficiency, with food arriving within minutes of ordering.

The specialty here is definitely the handmade soba (Japanese noodles made with buckwheat flour), with the menu ranging from the ultra simple zaru soba (soba noodles served on a bamboo mat, which are simply dipped in tsuyu, a sauce made from dashi, mirin, and sweetened soy) to a multitude of other cold and hot combinations. The soba is probably some of the best in Southern California. Delicate and light, as only handmade soba can be, but with enough structure and bounce.

Each dish is carefully crafted from a multitude of fresh, high quality ingredients. The mentai oroshi comes topped with spicy cod roe, grated daikon radish, shaved bonito, and green onions. Swirling in the cod roe adds a subtle, briny heat to the stock, though never overpowering the delicate freshly-made noodles.

Another bowl features glistening nameko mushrooms; a dab of wasabi adds just the perfect amount of complementing nuttiness. The broth that plays a major role in Ichimi-an’s noodles is well-balanced and speaks of dashi and soy, but is never too sweet.

One of the current specials, tororo mozuku, a cold preparation of udon (a thinner, flatter version, more akin to fettuccine in shape), is highlighted by a flavorful vinegar-based broth, which gains substantial body from the addition of grated mountain yam. Each slurp and bite delivers an entertaining mouthful; chewy al dente noodles, vinegary seaweed, citrus-like grated ginger, peppery radish sprouts, umami-rich bonito, and an unusually thick but satisfying soup (further enriched with a raw quail egg).

bamboo; tea; sake ikura don; counter

In addition, Ichimi-an offers small rice bowls, which helps to fill the void when noodles and soup just aren’t enough. While the tuna bowls are somewhat bland due to the absence of seasoning, the sake ikura bowl (flaked salmon with roe) bursts of salt. The floral, herbaceous chiffonade of shiso provides a suitable foil, and when proportioned with a bite of rice, the saltiness of the salmon and roe is brought into check.

To complete the meal, the restaurant provides complimentary hot and cold hojicha (roasted green tea), and soba-yu (the water in which the soba noodles are cooked in).

It’s difficult not to notice the pride in each bowl, the reverence of ingredients, and the attention to detail. Presentation is paramount; each tray of food carefully prepared, arranged, and delivered to your table, delighting not only the taste buds, but the eyes as well. It’s this following of time-honored tradition, and wonderfully simple and anthentic food, that is a refreshing departure from the norm.

Ichimi-an Bamboo Garden
1618 Cravens Avenue
Torrance, CA 90561
(310) 328-1323

current reads

Cooking by Hand
Paul Bertolli
Vij's: Elegant and Inspired Indian Cuisine
Vikram Vij & Meeru Dhalwala
Dark Nostalgia
Eva Hagberg
Momofuku
David Chang and Peter Meehan
The Big Sur Bakery Cookbook
Wojtowicz, Gilson, and Price
I Love Macarons
Hisako Ogita
Garden Anywhere
Alys Fowler
A Homemade Life
Molly Wizenberg
A16: Food + Wine
Nate Appleman & Shelley Lindgren
The Perfect Scoop
David Lebovitz
Tartine
Elisabeth Prueitt & Chad Robertson

on shuffle

Unkle
Where Did the Night Fall
Arcade Fire
The Suburbs
Stars
The Five Ghosts
The Radio Dept.
Clinging To A Scheme
Temper Trap
Conditions
Broken Bells
Broken Bells
New Moon
Original Motion Picture Soundtrack
Kings of Convenience
Declaration Of Dependence
XX
XX
Cut Copy
In Ghost Colours
Simian Mobile Disco
Attack Decay Sustain Release
Friendly Fires
Friendly Fires
lost in istanbul: portrait of a city eating istanbul summer leave lost in istanbul: accomodations fauxlaroid fridays: istanbul part II fauxlaroid fridays: istanbul from turkey with love lost in istanbul radish salad with yuzu vinaigrette risotto with poached egg & bacon orecchiette with sausage and rapini hot for chocolate wish mornings vancouver: medina & blue water vancouver: yaletown & the waterfront bites: whistler part II be mine bites: whistler white out windows – hwy 99 olympic contender oregon trail: part II oregon trail macaron love giving thanks sugar & spice head to toe ace in the hotel pantry raid where the wild things are summer’s end spoonful of sugar korean bánh mì q joshua shaken not stirred harvest crusade true religion fo shiso bites: golden state